Better Beta

Bouldering Cave

Boulder · New Mexico

Generally shady. This "rock" is well traveled but it's weepy limestone and forms a cave that is quite subject to freeze-thaw that results in sometimes annual changes in routes. Nevertheless, it's still good climbing. The main cave hosts a good selection of problems in the V4 to V9 range with many eliminates, variations and link-ups. There is also the Murry Pinch V11 is a problem that involves a terrible pinch at the lip then tinny crimps and is between the Football Problem and the Reachy Sidepull problem. There are also 4 sport climbs in the cave. Blockade (far left) is listed in MP; the other three are not.  See photo for chain locations. To the left of the roof are several easier problem V2 to about V4 and as you continue left there are more problems but the rock has not recived as much "LOVE" and is thus a bit less reliable. If you can get over the huge amount of epoxy that has been poured into this area (very little would be climbable here without it) it provides a good change of pace from the typical slabby, sharp granite to be had near town. As well as a shady venue that is at least bearable during the summer, though if you want to do stuff that is hard for you, better to wait till temps are in the 60's or lower as the rock is pretty polished.

16 lines

  1. V1Warmup V1
  2. V2“The V2”
  3. V2+“The V3”
  4. V4Football Problem
  5. V5Aussie Rules Football
  6. V5Crimpy V5
  7. V6Janky glue problem
  8. V6-Low Low Start (aka Desperation)
  9. V6Pegboard
  10. V8The Baseball Problem
  11. V8-V8
  12. V9-Reachy Sidepulls?
  13. V9The Schtick
  14. V10Double Bump
  15. V10Murray Pinch
  16. V9+The Jew Claw

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